Welcome back to Japan. The time is 1:40am, when words come alive. Two months (and some change) have passed since I last wrote, but I'm not dead quite yet. Maybe soon, but not yet.
I could tell you about crashing my bike at 30mph helmetless in the middle of a busy five-way intersection downtown or the threatening late night visit from an adult english student's enraged husband who accused me of having an affair with his wife (then apologized later that night for the misunderstanding by bringing me a six pack of Suntory Rich Malt and some kit kats- Rich Malt has been my beer of choice since), but I don't want to worry the motherly readership of this blog any more than necessary. For the rest of you, when I'm home remind me to tell you some of the stories that don't make it on here.
I can tell you right now that this entry, an attempt to convey where I'm at right now (literally and figuratively), will flip around like an epileptic acrobat at a rave nursing a sprained ankle. Here we go.
I'll start in the immediate future, to help paint a picture of where I am at the moment (in my boxers, on my couch with a fan pointed at me, alone and typing on Alex's computer at just shy of 2am). Come Sunday I'll fight in a local karate tournament against black belts aged 21 and over. Sweet Holy Jesus. I'll be both the only white guy and white belt in the place. It's not full contact (I'm not that tough) so I shouldn't walk away with anything worse than a few bruises and a tweaked neck after repeated roundhouse kicks to the head. The important thing here (for my self esteem) is that Kimura Sensei, to my complete surprise, asked me to join the dojo tournament team a month ago. This ostensibly means I'm making some progress after about a year of training. Just look at this intimidatingly shaved dome from a festival at Japan's primary Honda factory this summer:

Sitting near my sliding door here in the living room with the screen affording a view of the porch outside (along with letting in that pleasant textured melody of crickets that lets you know you live in/near the countryside) I can't help but wonder how many cats pass silently by every night as I sleep. At least four is my guess.
Anyway, I got served another generous portion of humble pie yesterday afternoon when I failed my Japanese Driver's License test for the second time. The test is extremely detail-oriented, and at least from an outsider's perspective, can seem fundamentally disconnected from the practical real-world skills it's meant to gauge. Not unlike the English tests I grade. A Chinese woman, who I had also taken it with last week, passed today after her 12th go at it. The other two American guys and I were shown the big X for batsu (fail) for our collective second tries, all of us given vague instructions to check our mirrors more often (than I thought possible). Meaning the road ahead should be seen only out of your peripheral vision as you swivel like a bobble-head in anticipation of maniac tricycle gangs hopped up on milk tea and Crunky bars who could launch themselves suicidally between you and the curb at any moment.
Here's a picture from a fun hike up Mt. Aso last month:
I own a beautiful white Toyota Starlet which has waited silently and patiently in my parking lot for close to two months now as this licensing process runs its meandering course. Ah, to be a machine. But hey, you either accept these red-tape mountain ranges while living in Japan, go crazy, or go home. I've learned to take constant failures a little more philosophically. And by philosophically, I mean with two tall cans of Asahi and a quarter flask of Jack and Coke on the porch with Lloyd yesterday followed immediately by a nice 5:30pm nap. Which led to waking up at 1am, which led, happily enough, to writing this.
On October 9th I'll take the GRE in Osaka. So I've been studying for that. Not sure yet what I want to commit to doing for the rest of my life, but I'll try and narrow that down in the next three weeks so I know where to send the scores. The Bushey School of Animal Painting is all I have so far for sure, though I hear it hasn't quite been the same since the passing of dear old Ms. Kemp-Welch. Failing that, New York or somewhere else on the east coast could be a vibrant change of pace from the alternative Northwest lifestyle, and of course an entirely different world from Japan. Mmm, pizza bagels.
Next Sunday I leave for Beijing with Alex, then we'll head to Shanghai and return a week later. China! Beyond a Great Wall tour reservation we'll figure things out as we go along, part of the greatness of traveling with a flexible friend.
This is from a visit to my friend Erin in Seoul:

I've been subsisting somehow without a computer since the beginning of July (it fatally overheated almost exactly a year after its first meltdown- pending a second resurrection it's essentially a phoenix) so I've been corresponding sporadically by email via cellphone and have spent only a handful of hours on the internet at work in the last two months. It's been liberating. The endless current of youtube videos, wikipedia articles, NY Times editorials, games, Facebook profiles, stock research, streaming t.v. shows and flash movies can suck up hours in an instant, and when you get cut off from all that you realize how long an evening at home actually is. After a while I picked up Ender's Game and started reading for pleasure again, then went back to the local bar I hadn't set foot in for eight months, and tried out my Japanese with the Ueki townsfolk. I've also come to enjoy spending a bit of time before bed each night out on my porch, no music, no distractions, just sitting there and looking out past the fence. Does wonders for a good night's sleep.
My good friend Greg Hansen came to visit for a spell, and just took off last week. We traveled around Kyoto for a few days then took the overnight bus back to Kumamoto, not an easy twelve hour ride for a man who stands two meters tall, or for the yenny-pinching friend squeezed against the window beside him. Despite his prolonged bout with what may have been the swine flu, we had a grand time stomping around this fair country, culminating in a massive JET beach party down south in Ashikita for the final weekend. Here he is tenderly eating the salt off my head.

This legendary man's visit came when I was missing Seattle and the USA pretty strongly and beginning to turn an unfairly harsh eye on my surroundings (having just rounded the one year mark, yearning to drive to an onsen with the AC on). So it was a big breath of fresh air and a good chance to see things reframed through the wry but appreciative eye of a friend with honest insights and similar tastes. Who I could probably wrestle down in a heartbeat (in case you're reading this Hansen). Here's us rolling down a hill in a giant sphere, courtesy of Holly:
If the fates are kind my friend Caity will be flying over in the spring for sakura (cherry blossom) season, which would be Amazing. Especially if we make it up to see Kyoto's fabled hanami vistas.
Here's a shot from a dinner with Terry, who taught down south in Yatsushiro and is now working with the Japanese Consulate in Tennessee, before she headed home this August:
My Japanese is coming along, so very slowly, but the process has significant and usually immediate rewards. I finally reached a milestone earlier this summer- completing the Heisig course of 2,040 common-use kanji, whose forms I can now (often) recognize and match with a simplified English definition, thanks to creating thousands of short stories connecting the disparate elements within the characters. Sound time consuming? Yeah, a bit. The next step is to fit them into actual Japanese readings, and gradually learn to read. The cryptic puzzles of this world will slowly unravel into coherent soft drink advertisements, utility bills, and safety warnings, which for me is more exciting than it sounds.
Here's a picture of a baseball game reunion up north in Fukuoka with most of the India group:

Almost done here. It's about 4:20am, a time which has distinctly different meanings for a Whitman college senior and an assistant English teacher with a special pre-tournament training session in six hours. Despite the consistent routine of 8:30-5:15 workweeks (with half-day Fridays), my experience thus far has felt more like an extended study abroad program mixed with summer camp than the career of a true Japanese schoolteacher (try 8am-9:30pm and near-parental responsibility for a classroom of kids). As I've heard from my predecessors, the government's dual purpose for funding JET is to stir up the admittedly homogeneous Japanese culture with some different languages, natural hair/eye colors, and personalities, while leaving a favorable impression on the promising young college graduates who participate and will go spread the good word about Japan back home, then potentially get involved with some line of foreign service work between the countries. Which, incidentally, is what I hope to do (coordinating joint American/Japanese investments in developing-world microfinance projects is the dream). Unfortunately for a lot of recent college grads JET is being scaled back in response to the pressing economic crunch. 27 new ALTs came to Kumamoto this year, compared to 69 last year. Looks like I made it in just in time.
This is from my friend Taylor's photo show earlier this summer. By accident I occasionally get to be in pictures with beautiful women.

I'm flying home to Seattle for Christmas (December 17-January 4), so hopefully I can see a lot of you then. Here are the things I miss most from home:
Family and friends
New movies in theaters
Being able to read/understand things/ convey urgent messages
Microbrews
Taco Bell and Wendy's
Leavenworth
Diner breakfasts
Watching basketball and primetime TV
Watching awful reality shows on late-night TV
Bagels
Kenmore's Cozy Inn
Ruffy
My old piano
Loud and unpredictable people
Listening to 93.3, 95.7, 97.3, and 103.7FM in the car
the list goes on, but I'll stop before profuse tears of nostalgia fall and short-circuit Alex's computer.
Thanks for reading, and if you ever want to say "hey man, this one Rogaine commercial made me think of you" or "when are you going to pay me back for that couch" or "stay in Japan, slagbiscuit" you can send an email to my phone at anderskg@docomo.ne.jp. anderskg@gmail.com always works too. Hearing from you, however briefly, would make me pretty happy. Atode mata.